AlaskaMake your Next Cruise an Adventure
By David Noyes
We were traveling a bit further into the mountains than usual, noted our young pilot as we rose higher and higher into the brilliant blue Alaskan sky. For nearly twenty minutes we slowly and deliberately climbed above the stunning snow-capped mountains north of Juneau. The impressive Mendenhall Glacier looked like a twisting mountain highway out of the small tinted windows of our able little helicopter.
I listened intently to his commentary as we navigated through the turbulence and shifting currents created by the massive peaks. After one final burst of power to clear a jagged ridge, we began our descent toward Gilkey glacier and the ice trekking experience that I had been looking forward to for months. I attempted to capture a few final snapshots of the spectacular landscape when Barbara’s sudden and intense grasp of my left thigh reminded me that I wasn’t alone on my great Alaskan adventure.
Vacation Planning
While Barbara and I have been a couple for over twenty years, it didn’t take us nearly that long to figure out that our definitions of vacation are very different. Barbara can relax at a beach or lakeside for days – I can’t!
Over the years, I have been marginally successful at talking her into joining me on some new experiences that fall well outside her ideal vacation scenario, like when she came along with me to spend our tenth anniversary photographing remote tribes in East Africa, or when she reluctantly agreed to spend our twelfth anniversary at kayak school: “They’re only class III rapids honey, it’ll be fun.” I am still paying for that one.
Typically she will agree to come along on a proposed adventure only after it has been fully investigated, our options outlined in great detail, and all the potential risks presented for careful evaluation following a wonderful dinner and expensive bottle of wine.
But this year when I suggested that we join a AAA group departure aboard Holland America’s ms Oosterdam on an Inside Passage cruise to Alaska, there was no lengthy negotiation, no pleading, no expensive bottles of wine – just an immediate and enthusiastic, “I’m in!”
Unfortunately, in my celebration over a quick and decisive vacation planning victory, I forgot about something that would once again test my negotiating skills. What did I forget, you must be thinking … shore excursions: There are dozens of them.
More Vacation Planning
As we reviewed our cruise literature, it was clear that the variety of options to personalize our Alaskan experience through shore excursions would take us time to digest. However, there was one particular adventure that ignited my passion: a flightseeing and glacier trek out of our first port of call in Juneau. I of course knew that this inspiration would require all of my accumulated negotiating tricks and techniques to secure.
Following a wonderful dinner, bottle of wine, and hours of masterful bargaining, Barbara agreed to the excursion. Her final offer: 1) she would choose our other shore excursions once on board, 2) she would receive the spa treatment of her choice, 3) she would not be asked to restrain herself in any way on this vacation (she meant shopping of course), 4) and finally, I would be required to wear a tuxedo for the two formal dinners.
Deal!
I am not sure who won, but I immediately logged on to Holland America’s Web site and booked the excursion before she raised the price.
All Aboard
After months of anticipation, we were finally on board ms Oosterdam and cruising north from Seattle towards Alaska. The long journey to Juneau gave us a chance to fully enjoy the cruise experience by exploring the beautiful ship: locating fun little nooks where we could share quiet moments together, taking in a show at the theater, getting some exercise by circling the promenade deck, and sampling all of our dining opportunities.
This was our first cruise and like many, I had resisted the experience for years because I didn’t think I wanted to spend my vacation with two thousand other people on a floating hotel. I was actually surprised at how easy it was to customize our cruise experience and how much I enjoyed our time aboard the ship. We spent hours simply watching for a fleeting glimpse of a whale at sunrise or relaxing to the hypnotic rhythm of the waves from the ninth-floor Crows Nest lounge at dusk.
In fact, being surrounded by beautiful scenery and enjoying the comfortable environment on board the ship may have been a satisfying vacation by itself, but we had come to Alaska for adventure! To feel the ice under our feet, to take flight and view the world from where eagles soar, and just maybe paddle through a hidden passage where the orcas swim. We (or maybe just I) wanted to see and experience the raw beauty of the undisturbed wilderness.
Shore Excursions
Within minutes of our gentle landing on the centuries-old ice flow, we were outfitted with crampons and helmets and given a brief lesson on the proper use of our ice axe before setting out on our two-hour trek. Barbara had an unsettling look of intensity on her face as she took her first tentative steps on the unfamiliar surface. Following our guides, we carefully made our way along the glacier’s edge and over the occasional small crevasse created by the melting ice of early summer. We soon began to truly appreciate that we were sharing an amazing experience in a place where very few people have ever walked.
We arrived back in Juneau with plenty of time to enjoy a wonderful meal of fish and chips and start the shopping portion of our adventure. The eclectic shops provided a great opportunity for Barbara to enjoy a bit of “alone time” while I headed to the famous Red Dog Saloon to share stories of adventure and bond with other intrepid cruisers before heading back to the ship.
Our second port of call was Sitka, a charming, historical town dating back to the Russian Colonial period. Many people enjoyed doing a bit of shopping along Lincoln Street, visiting historic sites or touring the magnificent totem collection at the Sitka National Historical Park. I, however, was hopeful that Barbara would choose the Wilderness Sea Kayaking Adventure that we read about in our tour book. Honestly, I wasn’t very surprised when she did; after all, my warrior princess went to kayak school.
Our final Alaskan port of call was Ketchikan, and Barbara chose for us to visit the Saxman Native Village. The Tlingit village located three miles south of Ketchikan features Totem Bight State Park and gave us a bit of cultural exposure before heading back to town for another episode of Barbara’s great Alaskan “shopping adventure.”
Towards Journey’s End
As we made the long approach to Hubbard Glacier, one of the highlights of the cruise, Barbara and I crowded with new friends at the bow of the ship and shared a true sense of amazement. With the glacier as our background, the engines were cut and we drifted in the bay while we enjoyed a grilled salmon lunch at the Lido deck pool. There is simply no experience quite like it in the world.
It was after dark when ms Oosterdam set sail for our return to Seattle from our final port of call in Victoria, British Columbia. It felt as if our first cruise was ending far too soon. It took us a couple days to get familiar with the whole “cruise experience,” but both Barbara and I departed the ship with memories that we will share with family and friends for years to come. This year we finally found a perfect mix of comfort, luxury, and adventure for an unforgettable vacation.
