Maintenance
Oil & Filter Change
Coolant Flush
Transmission Flush
Power Steering Flush
Four Wheel Alignment
Differential Service
Oil & Filter Change
Description:
Periodic oil and filter changes keep your engine clean on the inside. Motor oil can become contaminated by dust, metallic shavings, condensation, and even antifreeze. Additives break down over time and can also act as contaminants. The best advice is to follow the guidelines provided in the vehicle owner's manual, but every 3,000 miles or 3 months is a good rule of thumb for oil and filter changes. Many car manufacturers today are recommending extended oil change intervals for some drivers. However, if you regularly make short trips in your car, drive in stop-and-go traffic, idle for extended periods, drive in dusty or dirty air conditions, tow a trailer or live in a cold-weather region, it's best to stick with a 3,000- mile/3-month regimen.
Purpose:
Engine oil lubricates, cleans, and cools critical parts of the engine. The oil's additives also help to suspend dirt, where it can be drained at the next oil change.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
If you change your own oil, be sure to properly dispose of all waste. A single quart of used engine oil has the capacity to pollute 250,000 gallons of ground water. Never pour used oil down the drain or into the ground. Not only is it illegal, it's also harmful to the environment. Used engine oil is converted for new uses, such as industrial fuel or lubricants. Put used oil into original oil containers or other clean, plastic closed containers, with the contents clearly labeled on the outside and bring the used oil to a facility that accepts used engine oil.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Coolant Flush
Description:
Check your owner's manual for antifreeze usage specifications. Antifreeze, when mixed at a 50/50 ratio with water, provides excellent anti-freeze, anti-boil, and anti-corrosive properties. In extremely cold environments, the ratio for standard ethylene glycol can go as high as 70% antifreeze, 30% water. With DEX-COOL®, the maximum ratio of antifreeze to water is 60/40. Although DEX-COOL® type antifreeze can be mixed with standard ethylene glycol antifreeze, DEX-COOL® loses its 5 yr./150,000 life. As such, it's best not to mix antifreeze types unless absolutely necessary. All coolants must be diluted with water at the proper ratios and should not be used full-strength. Full-strength antifreeze actually has a lower freeze point than when mixed with water.
Purpose:
When properly mixed, antifreeze and water provide excellent anti-freeze, anti-boil and anticorrosive properties.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
One of the most crucial fluids in your vehicles engine is coolant.
Over time and with temperature extremes, your coolants protective additives are naturally depleted and begin to breakdown allowing corrosion, scale and even rust to permeate the system.
These deposits cause early failure of your cooling system components. Your vehicle runs hotter thereby shortening the life of your engine, transmission, and causing dangerous roadside breakdowns.
Generally, standard ethylene glycol type antifreeze should be changed every two years or 24,000 miles. Even though the coolant freeze protection may test OK with a hydrometer (freeze protection only drops with extreme dilution, not with age), the additives break down over time. When changing coolant, it also presents an opportune time to replace bad cooling system hoses. Leaking, brittle, spongy, cracked, or rotted hoses should be replaced before new antifreeze is installed. Hose clamp connections should also be checked to ensure that they're secure and free from leaks. If you decide to service your cooling system yourself, use extreme caution: Opening a hot radiator or coolant reservoir/overflow tank can cause severe burns. Be sure that both the engine and cooling system are cool before you begin any heating/cooling system maintenance or repairs. Because of lower hood profiles and cramped engine quarters, it's also possible that your car may be equipped with an air bleed for the cooling system. Unless the cooling system is bled properly, air may stay trapped in the system and cause erratic temperatures, or in extreme cases, engine or cooling system damage. If you're unsure about any aspect of cooling system service, don't take a chance. Have your car looked at by a professional service technician.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Transmission Flush
Description:
Owner's manual recommendations on transmission fluid changes vary considerably and may go as high as 100,000 miles or more.
Purpose:
Automatic transmission fluid serves a multitude of purposes. Among other things, it cleans, cools, lubricates, transmits force, transmits pressure, inhibits varnish build-up and protects the transmission on a day-to-day basis.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
For best results, have your car's transmission fluid and filter changed every two years or 24,000 miles. Always use the type of fluid specified by your car's manufacturer. This information can be found in the owner's manual or on the end of the transmission dipstick. The overwhelming majority of transmission failures are heat-related, and automatic transmission fluid breaks down rapidly when subjected to high temperatures. Driving conditions such as trailer towing, quick stops and starts, ascending and descending mountains, and wheel-spinning in slippery conditions are but a few scenarios that can devastate the life of the transmission fluid. Although changing the fluid yourself is not difficult, it's probably best left to a qualified service technician. This is also a good time to drain the transmission fluid from the torque converter, if possible. Consult your technician to see if this can be done.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Power Steering Flush
Description:
Check the power steering fluid level at every oil change. Refer to your car's owner's manual for specific recommendations on the type of power steering fluid to use. Fluids need to be compatible with hoses and seals and in some cases the recommended fluid may be automatic transmission fluids such as Type F or Dexron®.
Purpose:
The fluid lubricates and transmits the pressure needed for power-assisted steering.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
It's possible to check the power steering fluid level when your car is cold, but it's usually recommended to check the fluid with the car warmed up. Many cars today use a semi-transparent reservoir for power steering fluid, so look for a fluid level mark on the outside. If the reservoir has no markings, open the reservoir's cap. There should be a small dipstick attached that provides the level reading.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Four Wheel Alignment
Description:
Wheel alignment consists of a series of interrelated measurements and adjustments that bring a vehicle's steering, suspension and on-road driving characteristics into manufacturer's specifications.
Purpose:
Proper wheel alignment reduces tire wear, improves fuel economy and handling, while increasing driving enjoyment and safety.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Have your car's alignment checked once a year. Normal wear and road conditions can take their toll on your car's steering and suspension system, possibly throwing the alignment settings out of specifications. For best results, seek a reliable alignment shop and qualified technician who can perform a four-wheel alignment on your car. Traditionally, alignments have always been associated with only the front wheels, but no longer. Consider this: The rear wheels set the direction of vehicle travel; the front wheels steer the vehicle. Having all four wheels checked ensures directional harmony as your car goes down the road. Some common symptoms of your car needing an alignment include uneven tire tread wear, pulling to one side, wandering, and an off-center steering wheel. Start an annual routine of alignment checks and you won't have to experience reduced tread wear and a loss of vehicle performance. While having your car's alignment set, it also serves as the perfect opportunity to balance your car's wheels.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Differential Service
Description:
Axle lubricant is a specially formulated oil that is capable of handling high-pressure loads. The lubricant comes in various viscosities to meet different specifications. Axle lube may be formulated from mineral oil or synthetics.
Purpose:
Axle lube provides lubrication for the various gears and bearings in the rear axle of rear-wheel-drive cars and trucks. Axle lube is also used in the front axle of four-wheel-drive light trucks.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Have the axle lube level checked with every oil change. Check your vehicle's owner's manual to find out the recommended interval for axle lube changes. Many manufacturers claim their axles as "lubed for life", unless the axle has been submerged in water. If you have a pickup or SUV, this may happen quite often, especially if you pull a boat. If this is the case, have the axle lube changed at least once a year. In cold climates, you may want to consider changing the standard axle lube to synthetic. Synthetic lubes flow easier in cold weather, improving lubrication. With a 4x4, this is doubly the case because of the two axles. Always use a lubricant that meets or exceeds the manufacturer's lube specifications.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Major & Minor Repairs
Automatic Transmission
Manual Transmission
Clutch Adjustment
Engine Replacement
Timing Belt
Automatic Transmission Replacement
Description:
An aluminum case containing a torque converter, an arrangement of planetary gears, clutches & bands, servos, a hydraulic system, solenoids, and a valve body. On front wheel drive cars, the transmission and differential are combined into a single housing called a transaxle.
Purpose:
An automatic transmission/transaxle changes the engine's speed and torque in relation to the speed and torque of the drive wheels. This keeps the engine's output matched as close as possible to varying road speeds and loads. The torque converter, connected to the transmission/transaxle input shaft, connects, multiplies and interrupts the flow of engine torque into the transmission.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Most of today's automatic transmissions/transaxles do not require any regular adjustments. Check your owner's manual to see if any adjustments are required. Owner's manual recommendations on transmission fluid changes vary considerably and may go as high as 100,000 miles or more. For best results, have your car's transmission fluid and filter changed every two years or 24,000 miles. Fact is, the overwhelming majority of transmission failures are heat-related, and automatic transmission fluid breaks down rapidly when subjected to high temperatures. Driving conditions such as trailer towing, quick stops and starts, ascending and descending mountains, and wheel-spinning in slippery conditions are but a few scenarios that can devastate the life of the transmission fluid. Although changing the fluid yourself is not difficult, it's probably best left to a qualified service technician. This is also a good time to drain the transmission fluid from the torque converter, if possible. Consult your technician to see if this can be done.
Manual Transmission Replacement
Description:
An aluminum or iron housing containing an arrangement of bearings, synchronizers, shift forks, gears and shafts. The input shaft receives engine torque from the clutch disc and the output shaft delivers power to the driving wheels. On front wheel drive cars, the transmission and differential are combined into a single housing called a transaxle.
Warranty
Your NAPA Transmission comes with a limited warranty designed to provide peace of mind. Parts and labor are covered for the full term on professionally installed units. Our warranty is not prorated - your coverage is just as good on the last day as it was on the first, for 36 months, unlimited mileage.
Purpose:
A manual transmission changes the engine's speed and torque in relation to the speed and torque of the drive wheels. This keeps the engine's output matched as close as possible to varying road speeds and loads.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Check your car's owner manual to find out when your car's transmission might require a lubricant change. The level of lubricant should also be checked at every oil change. Make sure that any lubricant used for changes or for "top-off" meets the requirements of the car manufacturer. This information is also in your owner's manual. Symptoms of faults inside the transmission may include difficulty when shifting gears, grinding when shifting gears, a growling or whining noise with the transmission in a certain gear range, and popping out of gear. Pinpointing problems in the transmission is best left to a professional technician. Should the transmission need to be replaced, you can purchase a completely remanufactured transmission and get back on the road worry-free.
Clutch Adjustment / Replacement
Description:
The clutch disc consists of a metal disc covered with a frictional facing similar to brake shoes or pads. The lining is made of a woven or molded non-organic material that also contains particles of soft metal such as aluminum or brass. This improves the strength of the lining and a series of radial grooves in the lining's face enhances the grip between the flywheel and the disc. A splined hub in the center of the disc mates with the transmission's input shaft, thereby providing a direct mechanical coupling between the two. A group of torsional springs located between the clutch hub and lining dampens driveline shock and vibration. The clutch disc is located between the flywheel and pressure plate.
Purpose:
The clutch disc transmits engine torque directly to the input shaft of the transmission. The clutch disc, when coupled with the pressure plate and flywheel, makes and breaks the flow of power from the engine to the transmission.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Since pressure to the clutch disc is applied and released continuously throughout the course of normal driving, the clutch disc lining will wear over time making it a normal wear item. Clutch chatter is a common symptom that may indicate a worn clutch, but this symptom could also be caused by oil leaking from the engine onto the clutch assembly, a poor flywheel surface, damaged pressure plate release levers, a sprung clutch disc hub and improper alignment between the engine and transmission. Another common clutch problem is clutch slippage. This can be caused by a variety of factors such as a damaged pressure plate, worn, binding or misadjusted linkage, incorrect clutch components, and even normal wear. A dragging clutch is the least common symptom and is just the opposite of slippage. Drag occurs when the clutch doesn't release at all, or releases only partially. Clutch drag is usually caused by a worn, binding or misadjusted clutch linkage. Drag can also be caused by air in the hydraulic clutch linkage, damaged pressure plate fingers, and binding of the clutch disc on the input shaft. To get to the heart of your car's clutch problem, have a professional technician road test your car to confirm the symptoms you're experiencing. It's the best first step of a proper diagnosis.
SOURCE: AAA Western & Central New York
Engine Replacement
Description:
You want an engine you can trust for years with like-new performance. Remanufactured Engines are available through AAA Car Care Plus®. you can expect your engine to perform exactly like the original - and for just as long!
Warranty
Your NAPA Engine comes with a limited warranty designed to provide peace of mind. Parts and labor are covered for the full term on professionally installed units. Our warranty is not prorated - your coverage is just as good on the last day as it was on the first, for 36 months, unlimited mileage.
Availability
We know you can't be without your car for long. That's why we stock Marshall Engines at one of our car care centers.
Selection
With Marshall, you can get your engine in a variety of popular configurations - longblocks, shortblocks, engines with tin ware already installed, and even dyno tested engines!
Like New
All Marshall Engines are designed to perform just like the original. In some cases, modifications will mean they will perform better than new!
Every Marhsall Remanufactured Engine Includes All New:
- Pistons
- New or Reground Camshaft
- Piston Rings
- Main Bearings
- Camshaft Bearings
- Connecting Rod Bearings
- Timing Chain & Gears or Belt
- Freeze Plugs
- Valve Lifters
- Gaskets (Valley pan intake gasket not included)
- Oil Pump
- Valve Springs
SOURCE: Marshall Engines
Timing Belt
Description:
Many of today's engines use timing belts, but not all. Some engines still use a timing chain and sprocket arrangement. A timing belt is a precision component with teeth that mesh exactly with its mating sprockets. Especially critical is uniformity of the teeth and their spacing. The belt's teeth are precision molded from a special rubber compound for good mesh and long life. The belt's inherent tensile (stretch-resistant) qualities come from high strength cords that run parallel with the direction of belt travel.
Purpose:
The timing belt maintains crankshaft-to-camshaft synchronization, keeping valve operation matched to piston position. On some engines, the belt also drives other components. These include the oil pump, water pump, and balance shafts.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Check your car's owner manual for information on timing belt maintenance. Manufacturers generally recommend a certain mileage for belt replacement. If the timing belt is not replaced at the suggested interval, the belt could break, leaving you stranded and possibly causing major engine damage. If you're having the timing belt replaced, consider replacing other parts that may be accessed at the same time. The water pump, timing belt sprockets and tensioning pulleys are good examples. Check with a qualified service technician if you have questions about your car's needs for timing belt maintenance.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Tires
Purchase Tires
Tire Rotation
Tire Balance
Purchase Tires
Description:
Tires are simply the wearable and therefore replaceable part of the tire/wheel assembly. Although many different types of tire designs have been used since the dawn of the automobile, the radial tire has virtually replaced all other varieties. Radial tires, by far, deliver better safety and handling, fuel economy, steering, traction and cornering. The typical radial tire consists of a bead, a casing, belts, and tread. Today, nearly all tires have belts made from steel. Radial tires also last much longer than any previous tire design. Although driving habits and tire care play a key role in tire life, radial tires may last as long as 100,000 miles. Virtually all of today's tires used on automobiles, and many used on light trucks, have a tubeless design. This means there is not a separate balloon-like tube inside the tire, as was the case with older tire designs.
Purpose:
Tires serve as the wearable part of the overall tire/wheel assembly, but they also play a large role in vehicle safety. Today's tires must provide good traction under a wide range of driving and road conditions while providing long tread wear.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Check tire pressure frequently and also inspect the tires for abnormal tread wear and cuts and bruises along the sidewall. Rotate and balance the tires on a regular basis. If your car has a flat, have the tire professionally repaired. Since most flats are caused by damage to the tire, such as a puncture, anything less than quality repairs can affect the integrity of the tire. The best way to repair a tire is to have it removed from the rim, the inside inspected and corrective measures taken. When replacing tires, install only tires of the size recommended for your vehicle. Installing the wrong tires can result in contact with body panels or steering and suspension parts. The wrong tires can also affect speedometer readings and engine/transmission control.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Tire Rotation
Description:
Tire rotation refers to the regular practice of switching the position of each tire on the car.
Purpose:
Tire rotation helps to equalize tread wear and is critical to gain the maximum life from your tire investment.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Refer to your owner's manual for the recommended rotation interval and pattern; generally a rotation interval of 6,000 miles is recommended. The rotation pattern varies with different makes and models, which shows the tire locations during rotation. Some vehicles have different size tires on the front and back or directional tires. This limits the locations that a tire may take on the vehicle. When in doubt, check the owner's manual or consult a professional technician for guidance. Tire rotation time also offers a good opportunity to have the tires and wheels balanced. It's another step you can take to maximize your tire investment.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Tire Balance
Description:
Wheel balance refers to the proper distribution of weight around a revolving tire and wheel assembly. Poor wheel balance can have a marked impact on both your car and your safety.
Purpose:
Proper wheel balance ensures that the wheels, while spinning, do not have a heavy spot that can cause vibration and premature wear of tires, struts, shocks and other steering and suspension components. When combined with proper wheel alignment, balanced wheels ensure smooth and enjoyable driving.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
The most common signs of unbalanced tires are vibration and noise problems. When driving with an out-of-balance wheel, the wheel literally bounces down the road rather than spinning smoothly. This can affect the speed, handling and mileage of your car. Many of today's cars have lightweight suspension systems and are therefore, more sensitive to imbalance than older cars. It's a good idea to have your car's wheels balanced when rotating the tires, about every 6,000 miles. It's not uncommon for wheels to lose a wheel weight from time to time; so periodic balancing minimizes the impact of unbalanced wheels on your car.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Brakes
Standard Service
Clean & Adjust Drum Brakes
Brake System Flush
Brake Service
Description:
Historically, pads and shoes contained a lining material made of asbestos or asbestos compounds. Today's friction lining may contain semi-metallic compounds, non-asbestos organic compounds, and ceramics, among others.
Purpose:
Pads and shoes are the wearable friction elements of the braking system. When installed properly, they should provide reliable and quiet braking for many miles.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Have your car's brakes inspected annually to make sure everything's OK. It's always best to be able to plan ahead for brake work by knowing brake condition as your car ages. Brakes are a normal wear item for any car, so sooner or later they're going to need replacement. Planning can also save you money, because the brakes won't get to the "metal-to-metal" point, which usually means expensive rotor or drum replacement. Symptoms of brake problems may include dragging brakes, squealing brakes, a pulsating brake pedal (with ABS not functioning), grinding brakes, a low brake pedal or pulling when braking. If your car exhibits any of these symptoms, have it checked out by a qualified technician as soon as possible.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Clean & Adjust Drum Brakes
Description:
Brake drums and rotors are the spinning members of the braking system that come in contact with the lining material from the brake shoes and pads. Drums are usually made of cast iron and rotors may be made of cast iron, or a composite of cast iron and a stamped steel center section.
Purpose:
Drums and rotors provide the mating surface for brake shoes and pads. Because of the heat generated from all the friction, a drum or rotor must be able to remain stable even when subjected to the temperatures of repeated braking.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Have your car's brakes inspected annually to make sure everything's OK. It's always best to be able to plan ahead for brake work by knowing brake condition as your car ages. Brakes are a normal wear item for any car, so sooner or later they're going to need replacement. Planning can also save you money, because the brakes won't get to the "metal-to-metal" point, which usually means expensive rotor or drum replacement. Symptoms of brake problems may include dragging brakes, squealing brakes, a pulsating brake pedal (with ABS not functioning), grinding brakes, a low brake pedal or pulling when braking. If your car exhibits any of these symptoms, have it checked out by a qualified technician as soon as possible.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Brake System Flush
Description:
The brake hydraulic system consists of the master cylinder, disc brake calipers (disc brakes), wheel cylinders (drum brakes), hydraulic lines and hoses, and combination/proportioning valve. When you push on the brake pedal, the force of your leg generates hydraulic pressure in the master cylinder, which then flows through the hydraulic lines and hoses to the wheel cylinders and calipers. The hydraulic force applies pressure through the wheel cylinders and calipers, forcing the shoes against the drums (drum brakes) and the pads against the rotors (disc brakes). In the early 1960's, cars began using split hydraulic systems and tandem master cylinders. Essentially, this divided the hydraulic system into two separate systems (front and back), ensuring proper hydraulic and braking on one side of the system, if a leak developed on the other side. In the 1980's, some carmakers began to use diagonally split systems, which took safety a step further. Instead of splitting the system into front and rear, the system was now hydraulically divided into left-rear/right-front and right-rear/left-front. By maintaining one front and one rear brake, the result is more balanced braking when the system develops a leak. By law, all of today's cars are required to use some type of hydraulically split system.
Purpose:
The hydraulic system transmits and multiples force as needed to provide braking action throughout the brake system.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir regularly, ideally at every oil change. Most cars use semi-transparent reservoirs that have level markings to make fluid monitoring easy. If you need to add fluid, use only the type of fluid recommended in your car's owner's manual. Do not leave the cover off the master cylinder any longer than necessary; DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids attract water. Use extreme care when handling DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluid as it quickly destroys paint if spilled. On cars with disc brakes, it's normal for the fluid level to gradually drop as the brakes wear. This fluid fills up the space left by the disc brake caliper pistons as they move outward with brake wear. However, if you find that brake fluid needs to be added frequently, there may be a leak in the hydraulic system. Have the system inspected as soon as possible by a qualified service technician. Your owner's manual may specify periodic flushing and filling of the brake hydraulic system, which should not be overlooked. This is a service best left to professional technicians, as many cars with ABS have specialized brake-bleeding procedures. Braking systems with ABS can also generate extremely high hydraulic pressures, which can be dangerous. Once again, consult a professional service technician if your car needs ABS or hydraulic system service.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Tune-Up
Standard
Fuel Injection & Throttle Body Service
Standard Tune-up
Description:
Every vehicle is different. Once upon a time, tune-ups were recommended at every 30,000-mile interval. Times have changed and electronic ignition, fuel injection and computers have entered the vehicle maintenance scene. We recommend that every vehicle have a standard tune-up at least once a year.
Today's tune-up is more sophisticated, but some things remain the same. By having regular, scheduled preventive maintenance done on your car, you'll likely see longer life and improved performance.
Purpose:
A tune-up - or major service - is designed to keep your automobile in top running shape. It's preventive maintenance, much like your yearly visit to the doctor or dentist. A tune-up gives you peace of mind, knowing that you're probably catching problems before they turn into catastrophes.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Each vehicle has different needs, but a standard tune-up generally involves the following:
Checking filters. Some auto experts say that checking and changing filters on a regular basis may have more to do with your car's longevity than any other single factor. The oil filter helps remove rust particles and other solid contaminants from the oil. Replacing the oil filter helps prevent unnecessary engine wear. The air filter removes airborne contaminants such as pollen, dirt, dust, and debris by trapping them before they can enter the engine. This is a vital part of keeping your engine running smooth and efficiently. A clogged air filter prevents the proper amount of air to flow to the engine, which can cause your engine to use more fuel. In some cases, a clogged air filter can cause damage to the Mass Air Flow Sensor, which can be very expensive to fix! The PCV filter helps prevent oil breakdown and sludge build-up.
Checking spark plugs. Spark plugs are good indicators of engine condition. Replacement requirements vary but plugs and wires should be checked and cleaned at least once a year.
Checking distributor cap and rotor. Both the distributor cap and the rotor are usually plastic and will deteriorate with age and use. Cracks may develop, allowing moisture in. The metal contacts on both can then corrode, causing misfiring. These parts should be replaced at recommended intervals or if showing any excessive wear.
Other areas that may be checked at tune-up time: brakes, clutch, fluid levels and oil level.
Fuel Injection & Throttle Body Service
Description:
Fuel injection consists of a throttle body to control airflow, the fuel injectors, various engine sensors, an electric fuel pump and a fuel filter. The system is controlled by the car's powertrain control module (PCM), which makes all decisions for controlling the injection system. Most early fuel injection systems used a throttle-body design, where one or more injectors were mounted on a throttle body, resembling a carburetor. Use of the throttle body system faded away gradually as multi-port fuel injection became more prevalent. Multi-port uses a separate fuel injector for each cylinder, located near each cylinder's intake valve port. Virtually all engines now use multi-port injection.
Purpose:
Fuel injection delivers fuel to the engine in exactly the right amount for all engine-operating conditions. Not only does the system provide better control for fuel economy, performance and emissions, it also does away with many of the maintenance requirements of a carburetor.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
On cars with fuel injection, some carmakers don't recommend replacing the filter at all during the first 100,000 miles of "normal" driving. Since "normal" usually constitutes severe driving because of less than normal conditions, it's best to replace the filter every two years or 24,000 miles. A contaminated filter can restrict fuel flow from your car's electric fuel pump, eventually taking a toll on its life. Frequent filter replacements remove all doubt about whether the filter may cause other problems down the road. On 1996 and newer vehicles, your car's fuel injection system is integrated with a second-generation onboard diagnostic system, known as OBDII. The PCM stores a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) when it detects a problem in one of the monitored circuits. A professional technician can access this information using a scan tool connected to the vehicle's Data Link Connector (DLC). Although many DTCs are sensor-related, it does not necessarily indicate a faulty sensor. There may be problems in that sensor's circuit, or there may be several interrelated problems. Areas of the country with an emissions testing program are placing added value on OBDII checks, where this technology may be used in place of tailpipe testing. The system also alerts you with a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL), indicating that the system has detected a problem, which could cause excessive emissions. This light is usually labeled SERVICE ENGINE SOON or CHECK ENGINE. If the light appears, you should have its cause investigated by a professional technician at your earliest opportunity. If the light flashes, the condition is more severe and must be checked out immediately to prevent damage to the catalytic converter.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
AC & Cooling
AC Check
Evacuate & Recharge
Pressure Test Coolant System
Air Conditioning Check
Description:
The air conditioning (A/C) electro-magnetic clutch mounts to the front of the air conditioning compressor and electrically engages and disengages according to commands from the A/C system. Compressor designs may vary from one manufacturer to the next as to internal design and components. The A/C system is divided into two sides: high-pressure and low-pressure. The low-pressure side connects to the inlet of the compressor and the high-pressure side connects to the outlet, or discharge, of the compressor.
Purpose:
Upon command, the A/C clutch energizes and locks the clutch to the compressor. Once engaged, a serpentine belt or V-belt from the engine drives the A/C compressor. The compressor's main job is to pump refrigerant through the system so it can remove heat from the interior of the vehicle. Circulation of refrigerant also provides a secondary benefit, it moves refrigerant oil throughout the system, providing lubrication to key parts of the system.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Symptoms of a bad compressor or compressor clutch include poor or no cooling, and a noisy or seized compressor. Have your vehicle's air conditioning system checked yearly by a professional technician. The A/C system also operates when the climate control system is in the defroster mode to remove moisture from the interior, so A/C is more than a summertime creature comfort. Operating an A/C system low on refrigerant not only results in poor cooling, it can also damage the system due to poor lubrication flow. Make sure that the technician servicing your car uses the correct refrigerant and refrigerant oil. Use of the wrong refrigerant or oil can reduce system performance or even cause damage.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Evacuate & Recharge
Description:
The air conditioning (A/C) electro-magnetic clutch mounts to the front of the air conditioning compressor and electrically engages and disengages according to commands from the A/C system. Compressor designs may vary from one manufacturer to the next as to internal design and components. The A/C system is divided into two sides: high-pressure and low-pressure. The low-pressure side connects to the inlet of the compressor and the high-pressure side connects to the outlet, or discharge, of the compressor.
Purpose:
Removes heat and moisture from the interior of the vehicle and releases it to the outside air. When circulating in the system, refrigerant also helps to move refrigerant oil to key parts throughout the A/C system.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Symptoms of a low refrigerant charge include poor cooling and frequent engagement and disengagement of the A/C compressor. This may also be accompanied by an engine that changes speed with the cycling of the A/C clutch and compressor. A low refrigerant charge can also affect system lubrication, since good refrigerant flow ensures the flow of refrigerant oil. The phaseout of R-12 created a hotbed of confusion for motorists due to the introduction of numerous alternative refrigerants. In turn, these alternatives created confusion for technicians, who were then unsure as to whether an alternative was safe, or even legal, for use. Since R-134a has been the standard refrigerant for nearly a decade, issues related to the R-12 phaseout have faded away. Nonetheless, there are some important things to keep in mind if your car needs A/C system service. First, A/C system service costs more than it did in years past. Specialized recovery and recycling equipment, refrigerant identifiers, leak detectors, certification and training, and ongoing changes have increased the cost of A/C service. The threat of cross-contamination, where different types of refrigerants wind up being mixed together, is a nightmare for most technicians and shop owners. That's why it's wise to seek out a professional technician with a proven track record if your car needs A/C service.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Pressure Test Coolant
Description:
Check your cooling system components for rot, wear, or leaks.
Purpose:
The pressure cap controls pressure in the cooling system. The cap may be mounted on the radiator filler neck or on top of the coolant reservoir. That's why a pressure cap isn't always a radiator cap.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Never remove the pressure cap from a hot engine. Doing so can cause hot coolant to spray from the cooling system, causing severe burns. The pressure cap is a critical part of the cooling system and it should be checked at least once a year. Replace the cap if bad. Any type of cooling system maintenance should include a check of the pressure cap. Symptoms of a faulty pressure cap may include overheating and a coolant reservoir that either doesn't show a rise in the coolant level with the engine warm, or a reservoir that doesn't show a drop in coolant level as the engine cools. Pressure caps vary with different applications, so don't assume that one cap is as good as the next. For best results, use the replacement cap specified for your vehicle.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Battery & Electrical
Electrical System Check
Clean & Treat Battery
Diagnostics/EASE Upgrades
Electrical System Check
Description:
The starter consists of an electric motor that powers a starter drive-a special pinion gear designed to engage with the ring gear of the flywheel or torque converter. Many of today's starters also use a gear reduction to increase the torque output of the starter. The starter is usually mounted to the rear of the engine or the front of the transmission housing.
Purpose:
The starter cranks the engine when the ignition switch is turned to the start position. The starter drive uses an overrunning clutch that freewheels if the engine starts while the starter is still engaged, reducing the likelihood of damage to the starter drive and ring gear.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
To ensure good starter performance, check your vehicle's battery cables at every oil change. The cables should be tight and free from corrosion. Corroded or loose connections can cause slow cranking, arcing at cable connections, and other electrical system problems. The battery case and terminals can be cleaned using a mixture of baking soda and water. As an added measure to fight terminal corrosion, chemically treated felt rings can be placed over the battery posts. Each spring, prior to travel season, it's wise to have your car's starter tested as part of a comprehensive starting, charging and battery test. This test will determine whether your car's starter is drawing its normal amount of current. Excessive current draw usually means a worn starter and results in hard starting. Take your car to a professional service technician to get to the heart of your car's starting system problem.
Alternator
Description:
The alternator consists of a spinning set of electrical windings called a rotor, a stationary set of windings called a stator, a rectifier assembly, a set of brushes to maintain electrical contact with the rotor, and a pulley. All of these parts except the pulley are contained in an aluminum housing. Today's alternators use compact, electronic voltage regulators that may be housed inside the alternator or the voltage regulator function may be handled by the vehicle's powertrain control module (PCM).
Purpose:
The alternator generates direct current for recharging the battery and for powering vehicle electrical loads.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Have the alternator's drive belt tension checked at every oil change. A loose belt can reduce alternator output and run down your car's battery. Each spring, prior to travel season, it's wise to have your car's charging system tested as part of a comprehensive starting, charging and battery test. This test will determine whether your car's alternator is putting out the proper amount of current and voltage. Your car's alternator is designed to recharge the battery after slight discharging such as engine starting; the alternator is not designed for charging heavily discharged ("dead") batteries. Relying on the alternator to charge a heavily discharged battery can overload the alternator and cause damage. In such cases, use a battery charger instead. An alternator problem can cause a discharged battery, poor accessory and light operation, frequent bulb replacement, repeat voltage regulator failures, erratic engine operation, or a dashboard warning light to illuminate. To pinpoint the cause, have your car's charging system checked out by a qualified service technician.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Clean & Test Battery
Description:
The battery is the backbone of the electrical system. Most cars use a lead-acid battery. The battery is made of a plastic case, containing an arrangement of positive and negative lead plates separated by synthetic plate separators. The plates are connected to a set of terminals, which provide connection to the vehicle. The battery is filled with electrolyte, a mixture of sulfuric acid and water. The electrolyte and lead plates provide the chemical action necessary to store and release energy.
Purpose:
The battery converts chemical energy into electrical energy and vise versa. Given this unique ability, the battery: 1) supplies power to the starter and ignition system, 2) delivers the extra power needed when the electrical load exceeds the alternator?s supply, and 3) stabilizes voltage in the electrical system.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions:
Your vehicle's battery and its connections should be checked at every oil change. The battery should be mounted securely, as vibration takes a toll on battery life. On batteries with removable filler caps, the electrolyte should be checked and topped off with distilled water. Battery connections should be clean, tight and corrosion-free. To clean the battery case and terminals, use a mixture of baking soda and water. As an added measure to fight terminal corrosion, chemically treated felt rings can be placed over the battery posts. Batteries don't always give warning signs before they fail. When choosing a replacement, there's no such thing as a one-size-fits-all battery. Make sure the new one has adequate capacity for your exact make, model and equipment. If you live in an extremely cold climate, consider upgrading to the largest capacity available for your vehicle. Battery efficiency drops off drastically in cold temperatures and the extra capacity can make the difference in starting on cold winter mornings. Avoid running your battery dead; deep-cycling (discharging and then charging) quickly takes its toll on battery life. For longest life, automotive batteries are intended to keep a relatively consistent charge. If you decide to change the battery yourself, be aware that many cars may need to "re-learn" certain electronic engine control habits, like idle speed. Disconnecting the battery may also erase the memory of radios and other creature comforts like memory mirrors and seats. Check your vehicle's owner's manual for more specifics on changing the battery. Never discard an old battery in the trash. Take the old battery to a recycling center that accepts automotive batteries.
SOURCE: CAR CARE COUNCIL
Diagnostics/EASE Upgrades
Wouldn't it be nice to know your car's computer systems are operating properly without having to wait until a check engine light comes on or your car is in the shop for a repair or recall problem?
Cars manufactured since 1996 can have up to three computers networked together to control and monitor several safety and performance systems, and just like your personal computer or video player, those computers need upgrading.
But it isn't in the best interest of automotive manufacturers to let vehicle owners know it's time to take their car in for an upgrade of its computer system. When you do take your car in, charges may run to $75 for the check and reprogramming.
AAA Car Care Centers will now do computer vehicle upgrades, thanks to the purchase of new testing equipment called EASE, which includes thousands of upgrades published in the past two years by the manufacturers. EASE allows access to manufacturer's websites to download computer upgrade programs.
Computer Controls
Automotive computer systems control drivability, suspension, cabin temperature, brakes (anti-lock braking systems), and in some cases, the sound system, and need upgrading just like a laptop or desktop system.
The question is, how is it done on your car and who does this service?
Until recently the only automotive computer upgrading (reprogramming) was done at manufacturers' service shops. There has been reluctance on the part of manufacturers to notify owners that a computer in their car may need an upgrade.
The fear is tens of thousands of car owners would descend upon dealers seeking upgrades, even at a cost of $75.
Consequently, upgrades normally occur today when a vehicle is taken to a shop for repairs and a computerized diagnosis is needed, or when a vehicle is under warranty and a recall has been issued, which may be a programming issue.
Reprogramming Fixes
What are some issues drivers face when a vehicle hasn't been upgraded?
They can include a steering wheel shaking when the engine turns over, loss of the drive belt when starting the vehicle, hesitations when pushing the gas pedal, erratic idling speeds, poor mileage, door lock malfunction and more.
Manufacturers have quietly published thousands of upgrades in the past two years. To perform them, a repair shop needs certified equipment and licenses to manufacturer's web sites for download. EASE is compatible with the same diagnostic machines repair shops use when making DMV inspections.
EASE allows upgrading and reprogramming of all automotive computers in 30 minutes to an hour, depending upon the vehicle.
Side Benefit
EASE allows a comprehensive look at how all the computerized systems in a car are functioning.
An automotive mechanic can determine if a complicated repair is properly completed. EASE verifies the repairs without the customer having to take a 40-mile drive to make sure everything is working properly ¬ a convenience to the customer, and the repair facility.
SOURCE: AAA Western & Central New York
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